One shouldn’t decide to change the bra she’s making 3/4s of the way through. But I did. And I didn’t have the supplies for the change! So, a call to Bra-Makers, and a week waiting for the mail… and then some time to sew. And it’s done!
Here’s my most recent Shelley, and this one has a custom bridge, as well as some adjustments I made after my last Shelley. I used information from Norma’s book to do the bridge. This bra is in a very lovely ivory color.
This is pretty good in terms of fit. I will have to fiddle with it a bit. When I did the new bridge, it changed the size of the cradle. When I first put the wires in and tried it on, the wires were flipping outward. I knew this one from another bra I’d made – the wires were too small for the cradle. So, having tried many sizes in and around my size, I have extra wires on hand. I grabbed the next size up and no more flipping.
Here’s a close-up of the bridge. It’s still very narrow at the top, and lower too, to better fit the length of my wire. The above picture is also a better indication of the color of the bra.
Here’s the side view. It has a nice smooth fit into the cradle. I’m thinking it still may be a bit fuller on the sides than I want. However, it does fit! And the bridge is going all the way back. So the only real fitting issue I would have with this one is the wires are one size too big.
And the back. I did do what I saw in the boutique and used the same wide strap elastic at the back to connect to the straps as I was using on the straps. I was quite pleased with the look. As well, I used the same wide strap tape to join to the elastic. That was something I noticed and decided to try – all the straps were using wider strap elastic.
And a dart. Lowering the bridge means I have to do something to make the upper cup fit into the new lower bridge. On this bra I pinned the cup starting at the underarm, and then pinned around leaving just a bit unpinned between the top of the bridge and bottom. Then I saw how much I needed to take out of the cup. I pinned it and did a dart there – which is very close to what that Prima Donna Milady looked like. The big difference between the two bras is I’m not using a foam liner in the cup.
I did like the dart and it looks quite nice on. I may try something different next time too. I had another idea of how to make the cup fit with the lower bridge – like shortening the lower edge where the upper and lower cup join.
Overall, pretty good!