An Ivory Shelley with a Custom Bridge

One shouldn’t decide to change the bra she’s making 3/4s of the way through. But I did. And I didn’t have the supplies for the change! So, a call to Bra-Makers, and a week waiting for the mail… and then some time to sew. And it’s done!

Here’s my most recent Shelley, and this one has a custom bridge, as well as some adjustments I made after my last Shelley. I used information from Norma’s book to do the bridge. This bra is in a very lovely ivory color.

This is pretty good in terms of fit. I will have to fiddle with it a bit. When I did the new bridge, it changed the size of the cradle. When I first put the wires in and tried it on, the wires were flipping outward. I knew this one from another bra I’d made – the wires were too small for the cradle. So, having tried many sizes in and around my size, I have extra wires on hand. I grabbed the next size up and no more flipping.

Here’s a close-up of the bridge. It’s still very narrow at the top, and lower too, to better fit the length of my wire. The above picture is also a better indication of the color of the bra.

Here’s the side view. It has a nice smooth fit into the cradle. I’m thinking it still may be a bit fuller on the sides than I want. However, it does fit! And the bridge is going all the way back. So the only real fitting issue I would have with this one is the wires are one size too big.

And the back. I did do what I saw in the boutique and used the same wide strap elastic at the back to connect to the straps as I was using on the straps. I was quite pleased with the look. As well, I used the same wide strap tape to join to the elastic. That was something I noticed and decided to try – all the straps were using wider strap elastic.

And finally:

And a dart. Lowering the bridge means I have to do something to make the upper cup fit into the new lower bridge. On this bra I pinned the cup starting at the underarm, and then pinned around leaving just a bit unpinned between the top of the bridge and bottom. Then I saw how much I needed to take out of the cup. I pinned it and did a dart there – which is very close to what that Prima Donna Milady looked like. The big difference between the two bras is I’m not using a foam liner in the cup.

I did like the dart and it looks quite nice on. I may try something different next time too. I had another idea of how to make the cup fit with the lower bridge – like shortening the lower edge where the upper and lower cup join.

Overall, pretty good!

A Little of This, A Little of That

That about describes what I’ve been up to; Doing a little of this, and a little of that.

One thing I did this week that I’m so pleased with is a re-vamping of a couple of sundresses I made last summer. When I first made them, they were so easy. I bought the material with the smocking already done. I sewed them up and added some straps and hardly wore them! So much for so easy.

Last week I was reading in Andrea’s blog: Satin Bird Designs how she had remade a dress into a Maxi skirt. And I knew right away what I wanted to do with those sundresses!

Here’s the first one. Much more versatile than a sundress. I’ve worn it twice this week already!

I didn’t do much to remake it. I counted how many lines of smocking I wanted for the waist band, and cut it off in-between those lines. It was a bit funny when I was doing that because they weren’t perfectly lined up. I was wondering if I’d been drunk when I first sewed it. Then I remember a couple of things: One, I don’t drink. And two, the top was what I’d matched up evenly. So the material may have had a defect in it.

However, as Madalynne so recently wrote on her blog quoting from Norma’s book: “The only reason to tear out top stitching is if… it looks bad from 3 feet away.” So, my issue isn’t top stitching, but taking the heart of the message – I don’t think anyone is going to come up and start examining those rows of smocking and notice they’re not straight. Mind you, some of my friends may do that now. (smile)

And here’s the second skirt, which hasn’t been washed yet so is still a little stretched out in the waist band:

To finish both skirts, all I needed to do was finish that new edge I’d cut. They were already seamed from last year. I didn’t want to change the look on them, so did a lettuce-edge with a small zig-zag to cover the loose edges and keep them from fringing in the wash.

I did buy a couple of pair of pants this week that I’m going to cut off and make into Capri pants. The price was just too good to pass on.

My bra is still 3/4s of the way done and sitting on the dinning room table. I decided just as I was putting on the upper band elastic that I was going to change the bra. So no fabric straps on this one – this one is going to have strap tape & strap elastic for the straps – more similar to what I saw in the boutique. I’m just waiting on an order now from Bra-Makers to finish it up. This one is with a custom bridge from Norma’s book.

And lastly, my final bit of this and that. I painted the inside of the tray this morning.

This is only one coat with a stippled effect. I may use some black over the top of it. I’m going to used the Midnight color on the outside of the tray.

A Spy in the… Changeroom

I haven’t done any sewing all week! No painting or jewelry either. What have I been doing? Well, a lot of sneezing, sniffling and coughing, and feeling rather miserable. The weather is finally nice and I have a Spring cold.

Both of my sons had dental appointments in the big city next to us this past week, so I found myself with a good two hours before I needed to pick them up. It was too far to drive home and back again, so I was wondering what to do. Then I remembered a bra specialty store that had been close by. It had moved since I had last been there years ago, but my dear hubby googled it for me.

I dropped in, and went for a fitting. I was a bit surprised by the size I ended up in. However, it did fit. But having learned so much about bra-making in the past year, I was curious if the wire size was the same as what I used to wear in RTW sizes. I came home and checked, and yup, same wire size as before.  So now, a smaller band, so a bigger cup.

The most exciting part of being in the boutique was looking at the bras and seeing aspects of things I’d either read, or seen or used!

Like this one: (Yes, I took a few pictures with my phone.)

Recognize that downward hike on this popular brand? This is something Sigrid uses and mentions numerous times on her blog, and I’ve adopted it too. Beverly Johnson describes how to do this in her Bra-Makers Manual. However, I don’t think my hike is this downward.

And there was this:

Do you recognize this? This is the same way I was recently shown how to attach the strap. However, in this case the company used the same strap elastic as used on the strap itself. I think that makes a nice continuous visual line.

And one more:

On this bra I recognized the power net the company used; I’m pretty sure it’s Regular Power Net. Bra-Makers Supply describes it as looking ‘meshy’. I’ve used it and it looks exactly like this!

I had such fun at the boutique – all for reasons I’m sure most customers don’t experience. But the best moment I had while there? It was when the woman fitting me picked up my bra – the one that I had most recently sewn – and asked if it was a Fantasie! Well, if that isn’t going to make me feel great about my bras, I don’t know what will.

I still have a bra cut out on the dinning room table and plan to get it done this week. I’ve made all the adjustments to the pattern, and even made a custom bridge following Norma’s instructions from her ebook. So my next post won’t be quite as exciting as me sneaking pictures in a dressing room, but I’m sure I’ll be feeling much better by then!

Happy sewing!

Something Other Than a Bra

I must admit, I’m a bit of a bulldog when faced with a problem. I simply won’t give up, although I do say that I’m giving up from time to time. I stubbornly stay at something until I figure it out. That’s how I’ve been with getting my perfect bra pattern. But even I need a bit of a break every once in a while.

Here’s my latest distraction:

This wine cart was one of those wonderful finds. My dear hubby and I were out hitting some garage sales and I saw this. I fell in love at once, and the price was incredible – only $15! I wondered why it was so inexpensive, but when I got home realized it wasn’t level. One of the wheels wouldn’t go in all the way. After trying many ways to get that wheel in all the way, I figured I had nothing to lose and gave it a whack with a hammer. The wheel went in and I haven’t messed with it since.

The one thing I didn’t love about this cart was the color. I’m not a fan of pine. I prefer darker woods. So, this one finally is getting a makeover.

I painting it with Reloved Chalk Paint in Midnight. I’m not done yet, but it’s looking so much better. You can see the original color of the pine on the tray.

The cart is going to be solid Midnight, but the tray is going to be Midnight on the outside, and Barn on the inside. I may mix the colors a bit to get a darker red, but I’ll decide after the first coat of paint.

I’ve cut out some flowers to do a decoupage on the bottom of the tray as well. So, still a little work ahead of me, but I’m liking it so far.

And on some sewing news:

Danglez is still open and their discount is now at 50%. Just click on their name to go to their website.

In some other surprising and sad news, ELingeriA is closing. They’ve set a closing date of May 31st. Currently they’re offering 20% off most items. Again, just click on their name to go to their website.

I’ve bought from both of these companies, and will be sad to see them go.

And just an update, I worked on my new bridge over the weekend. I’m still not sure I’ve got it just right, but being as determined as I am, I know I’ll get it. Norma’s book , Demystifying Bra Fitting and Construction,  has been a tremendous help. Without a doubt, I recommend it.

Lowering the Bridge

So, I want to take a quick look at where I was at: the new longer wires I’d tried weren’t fitting properly and it was almost like giving up all the ground I’d gained in getting a proper fit; the bridge wasn’t going all the way back to the chest wall – and I was really beginning to wonder if it was really possible!

I put in yet another call to Bra-Makers Supply with another question. And guess what? Bridges really can go all the way back to the chest wall! I’ve had success!

Something that would have helped me tremendously is Norma’s new book: Demystifying Bra Fitting and Construction. I’d read on someone’s blog (I can’t remember whose blog to give her credit (sorry!)) there is a great section in the book on bridges, and that one section alone made the whole book worthwhile. It really is a great section! I’m hoping to have some time either today or Saturday to try it out. And even if you’re getting a great bridge fit, there is so much information in the book. Well done, Norma! and thank you!

However, I did have more success this week with my bridge. Is it perfect yet? Not quite, but it is actually all the way back to the chest wall. I think I just need to tweak the shape now.

Here’s my most recent Shelley.

Most of the materials are from Bra-Makers Supply, but the lace is a wonderful lace I found on Merckwaerdigh’s eBay store – and she still has some. Here’s the link for the lace: Lace.

On this bra I lowered the bridge by 3/4s of an inch. This gave the bridge the room it needed to go all the way back to the chest wall. I also overlapped the wires at the top of the bridge. I tried a tester earlier in the week without overlapping the wires but I still wasn’t getting the bridge all the way back. So, now just to tweak the shape a bit. Even my hubby said this is the best fit he’s seen me get yet.

Here is the side view. I re-made my Shelley pattern for this bra, but still need to take a bit out of the underarm area – there are a few puckers there, but not so many that it’s unwearable. Everything else was really good. Well, I may move the straps in a tiny bit.

And the back. I am really loving the new way of attaching the straps. As promised, I took some step-by-step pictures to show what I did.

When attaching the upper band elastic, don’t take the elastic down around the curve to the hooks & eyes; end it at the top of that curve. This has been trimmed to be nice and neat.

Take some elastic - I’m using the same bottom band elastic here - and pin it on with the little scallops facing outward. Can you tell I like to pin things securely?

Put a ring or slider on the elastic and fold it over. Since the rings & sliders come in sets, I’ve alternated which ones I’m using and they both work great. Here it is from the inside of the bra. And again I pinned it.

After sewing it on with a zigzag on both sides of the elastic, I attached the strap. It gives a nice professional finish to the bra.

Doesn’t that look nice and neat? I will definitely use this again and again.

Next to try again with my Shelley with a couple of tweaks.

Still Looking for Perfection

Well, I think the title says it all. However, I feel a little trapped in the try-try-again scenario, I know going back to RTW bras isn’t the answer either, especially knowing my cup & wire size do not match.

So what progress have I made in the last week or so? Well, remember my pretty bra  – the black lyrcra with swirls and the flipping underwire? And I mean literally flipping; I’m not trying to cover up a swear word. I had a thought what I could do to make it wearable. I pulled out my underwire stash and compared the bra’s cradle to the different sizes – I knew 38 was too small, and 44 too large. I found one that fits quite well. It’s not perfect, but it is wearable – and still a closer fit than RTW.

So pretty and still wearable. Not perfect though!

And on the topic of underwires… I thought I found my perfect fit, but when I wore the couple of bras I’ve made with that size of wire, they’re doing what started all my alterations in the first place – causing a deep ridge under the bust. So, they’re either too big or too small. Since they’re not digging into me at all, I’m thinking too big. This really is another area of challenge for me.

This week I continued with my idea to use my Sewy Rebecca pattern and make a Classic Full Band bra pattern. I made the adjustments after making a tester, and here’s the result.

Isn’t that pretty? I love the fabric – so glad lycra and I became friends again. Overall, it’s a pretty good fit. I’m still not getting the bridge all the way back to the chest wall. I’m starting to wonder if that’s going to be an elusive myth that I search for all my sewing days!

As a side note here, I did put a call in to Bra-Makers Supply and had a talk with Beverly about how I was not getting the bridge all the way back. She suggested I try a cup size up and band size down. I tried it and the band did fit better, but the cup was too big. Maybe I’m in between cup sizes. And still no bridge contact!

Anyway, I’m going to have to encourage myself a bit with the progress I have made. I do have a larger cup fitting into a smaller wire, and it is nice and neat looking. I do have a better band for me, and the straps aren’t falling off my shoulders – which they did in RTW too. So I am making some headway here.

I really like the black elastics with this material. But I can see one area here that I didn’t notice when I wore it – that gap under the arm at the side. Again, the problem is a difference in my shape and the mannequin’s. There is no gap when I wear the bra.

And this is a great little way to attach the straps. I learned this when I had the private lesson a few weeks back. When attaching the upper elastic to the band, rather than run it down the strap curve, leave that until after the upper elastics are sewn on. Then use the bottom band elastic.

Pin the elastic on outside of the band covering the strap curve, attach a slider or ring here, fold it over and pin it so it doesn’t move on you, and sew it on. I really like this look – it’s a very neat look.

And if that wasn’t clear, let me know, and I’ll post pictures of next time.

Finally, the burning question of the week? Did this new pattern with a straighter upper cup give me a little more lift? I think it did. I also looked through my stash of patterns to see if I had a straighter upper cup in any of the other ones I have, and didn’t find one that was straighter.

A Tester, A New Pattern, and Duh!

Do you ever do something, and then wonder, What was I thinking?’ Well, I was either over-thinking or not thinking at all!

Here’s the lovely bra I made:

You saw a bit of this last week. It’s lovely, the fit is pretty good. I’m still not quite getting the bridge back to the chest wall (Grrrr!), but it’s almost wearable.

Almost. Did you notice that. I did wear it and here’s what my problem was: the underwire was flipping up at the front under the bust and twisting along the bottom of the bra! What? This was a completely new one for me. I had no idea what wasn’t working. And it made it a bit uncomfortable.

So a call to Bra-Makers Supply and a question for Beverly. It kind of felt like deja vu – her answer was similar to one from a long time ago in my journey – something was either too big or too small. Last time it was the wires, this time the cradle.

And yes, duh! The cradle was too big. I have no idea what I had been thinking but I did not use a 38 cradle – used a 44 and folded it to take away some of the width. I eye-balled it, but clearly not well enough. There was an inch in there that needed to come out. It should have been so simple – use a 38 cradle and make it the same length as the 44.

So, one bra that is in the pile to take apart and redo. I don’t love fixing my mistakes, so I have a pile of them and they wait for me. That bra is now in the pile. I’ll pin a note to it so I don’t forget why it’s there.

So, this week, I made a tester for my friend. Thankfully, she is an easier fit than me. Her cup and wire size match. That makes it a LOT easier. However, I did up a 30 F for her, and the band is too big and cup too small. I do know her wire size, so I can figure out where to go from here for her.

One thing she commented on, that I haven’t loved either – she wanted more lift in the cup. I understand that – I need all the help I can get.

So, off to the drawing board again. I know from the Bra-Makers manuals that the straighter the upper cup, the more lift the cup has. Hmmmm. I thought about the patterns I have with a really straight upper cup. But none of them are ‘classic’ patterns.

I used what I knew from making my own Shelley pattern from the Designer Bras By YOU! CD, and did it backwards.

I used my Sewy Rebecca upper cup and put it together with the powerbar from the pattern.

Then I re-drew it.

I added the strap tab, and gave the top a nice smooth curve rather than the straight edge for lace. On this one (which is reversed, sorry) I also took in the under arm.

Here’s the tester I did with my new pattern:

It’s almost there. I tried this one before I did any adjustments just to see how it would fit. I found out I did need to take in the underarm in both the upper and lower cups, take in a bit of the length at the wire line, and add a bit to the bridge depth. So, I’ve adjusted my pattern, and I’m off to cut out my new pattern.

I do have another pattern that has an ever straighter upper cup, so I may do this same technique with that pattern this week too.

Happy sewing!